What You Need To Know About The Appalachian Trail
I am headed out for the adventure of a lifetime. I am going to be starting the Appalachian Trail in early April. But I wanted to give an overview of the trail and its history before I go. I will be posting my trip on youtube as I go and I will be posting items on the website as I can about it. But Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, I will keep other journeys that I did in the last few months posted.
Overview
The Appalachian Trail or the AP Trail is a hike that takes most people between five and seven months to complete. Some people will take longer and some will take less but for those that start the trail and make it to the finish line, it is life altering. Even for some that don’t complete the full trail, it can be life altering. During your time on the trail, you get to meet interesting people but the most important thing is you get to meet yourself.
The average time period is 165 days. The fast recorded time was done by 28 year old Karel Sabbe at 41 days, 7 hours, and 39 minutes which was fully supported, i.e. he had a crew to help him along the way with carrying items and setting up camp for him. I think that is great but I am not so sure that is the point of the trail.
The AP Trail is about 2,200 miles long and the longest hiking only foot path in the world. The mileage changes each year just a bit as nature and humans change the landscape. This year, 2020, part of the trail is off limits due to a cell towers that have cut off several miles of the trail and hikers will have to go around. Each year changes are make but over all the trail is about 2,200 miles.
The AP Trail travels through fourteen different states but the starting point depends on who you are and where you want to start. The two major starting points are Springer Mountain in Georgia and Mount Katahdin in Maine. The fourteen states starting with Georgia and go up the East Coast and the estimated miles in each state in ( ): Georgia (76), North Carolina (95), Tennessee (288), Virginia (550), West Virginia (4), Maryland (41), Pennsylvania (230), New Jersey (72), New York (88), Connecticut (51), Massachusetts(90), Vermont (150), New Hampshire (161), and Maine (281).
The lowest point on the trail is in New York near the Trailside Museum and Zoo at Bear Mountain at 124 feet. The highest elevation is 6,625 feet on the Clingman’s Dome in Tennessee.
Hikers will trail gain and lose over 89 miles of elevation. If hikers where to hiking Mt. Everest, then they would do it 16 times over the course of the AP Trail. The trail is no joke! Some of it is a bit flat but most of it is going up and down hills. Many in a very short time frame.
Terms that you need to know!
Hikers have several key phrases, slang, lingo, and items that you should know. Below are a few terms that I will be using that you should know as you read through here for the AP Trail information and I will add more to other post as needed.
2000 Miler-Someone who hiked the entire distance of the official AP white blazed trail as a thru hiker or section hiker.
AP Trail -Appalachian Trail
Blaze -A mark on a tree, rock, sign, etc. indicating the trail route. AP Trail is a painted 2 inch by 6 inch which are white.
Day Hiker -A hiker who is only out for the day.
Flip-Flop -A hiker that starts in one direction and jumps to another part of the trail and goes backwards to the part that they jumped from. This can be for several reasons including that Katahdin closes on October 15th and hikers are falling behind to complete the hike, they go to Mt. Katahdin and go south.
Long-Distance Hiker -Anyone that is hiking for more then a few weeks and usually has to resupply at leas once on his or her hike.
NoBo -A Northbound thru-hiker which is from Georgia to Maine on the AP Trail.
Section Hiker -A hiker who is attempting to do the AP Trail over a series of sections over time.
SoBo -Southbound thru-hiker which is from Maine to Georgia on the AP Trail.
Thru-Hiker -A hiker who is attempting to do the AP Trail in a single journey.
Thru-Hiking -The act of attempting to become a 2,000 Miler in a single continuous journey over one year.
Trail Name -A name that is selected by a hiker but usually bestowed on them by fellow hikers which can be fun, silly, or serious which connects them to their hiking experience or life, i.e. Sir Snooze-A-Lot for a hiker that keeps everyone up all night. Because what happens on the trail stays on the trail.
Zero Day -A day that hikers don’t hike on the trail. Usually, these are spent in town or at a hostel because the hiker is resupplying in town, hurt, and/or bad weather. But they do zero miles on the trail.
Where to start the trail?
This is the question that is the first thing that any hiker has to ask themselves. Currently, their are several types of hikers on the trail. The AP Trail has over 3 million visitors a year. Many come not to do the full trail but for the day, weekend, and/or short time frames.
Usually, those are the ones that are not doing the full trail but different areas of the trail. I have done several miles of the AP without thinking about it, i.e. the trail goes through several areas of Pennsylvania and one within a 30 minute drive of Gettysburg. I stayed next to the trail last summer while visiting the area around Gettysburg.
But there are three types of Thru Hikers: NoBo, SoBo, and Flip-Floppers plus section hikers. Nobos are those that start in Georgia and go to Maine. SoBos are those that start in Maine and go to Georgia. Flip-Floppers are those that start anywhere on the trail usually Harpers Ferry and hike to Maine or Georgia then go back to Harpers Ferry and go the opposite way to complete the trail.
Many Nobos become Flip-Floppers because of the timing of their hikes. Mt. Katahdin which is in Baxter State Park is closed to hikers as of October 15th each year and does not open again until late May or early June which depends on weather.
The mountain can become dangerous with weather conditions between those time frames. (Special note: Percival P. Baxter donated the land to the park. I know it is not a relative but special just because he was named Percival.)
Section hikers are those that do a bit of the trail over time. Some take off the summer, i.e. teachers and college student during their summer breaks, and do a few months each year until they complete it. Others do a week, two weeks, etc. at a time until they complete the trail. Many do this because of work and others because it is easier on the body and the mind.
When should you start the trail?
Nobo start the trail at any time but the most popular time is between mid March to mid April. For those that start before this, the record of completing the trail is very low to the point of very few if any make it because the weather elements get to them or they get hurt.
The weather before mid March includes snow, rain, and zero degree weather. It can be very unpleasant with a high rate of injuries. In addition, many of the towns shops and hostels that cater to thru hikers might not be open for the season. But the upside is that most of the shelters are free with few people on the trail for those who like to avoid people.
Sobo travels start at Baxter State Park which you have to get a permit for. They only have a certain amount of people that they allow to do the trail each year to protect the environment. They start these permits when the trail is safe to Mt. Katahdin which is late May to mid June. Therefore, you might not have a solid date to start until the mountain is open.
The Sobo is usually less done for several reasons which includes the fact that you might not have a solid start day, the 100 mile wilderness, the black flies that hatch during the summer months, etc. After completing the Mt. Katahdin which is up and back down, you start the AP Trail which starts with 100 miles of wilderness without stores or other nice things.
The 100 miles of wilderness is better to do after you have been hiking a while. Especially, if you are a new hiker or out of practice. This can be the hardest part of the trail for many people because you know once you start, you can’t just get off and take a ride into town.
Those that do the Flip-Flop usually start at Harpers Ferry and go either south or north. Then go back to Harpers Ferry and go the opposite way. Flip-Floppers can start anywhere as long as they do the complete trail. Flip-Floppers generally start at any time but usually between April to June.
As I said prior, many NoBo hikers end up being Flip-Floppers. I might end up as a Flip-Flopper as towards the end of my hike, I might need to get to Mt. Katahdin before it closes as I am a slow hiker and take my time.
Section Hikers tend to start at all different times of the year. In different places. It might be that they have two weeks in January off and they don’t mind the coldness or that we are having a very mild winter in some areas.
How much does it cost?
The trail is mostly free to hike except for a few places that require permits or camping fees. These are mostly under $15 dollar and very few but the AP Trail is under several different State and Federal Parks, Forest, and other management places which can change their fees at any time.
The trail cost is estimated to be at least $1,000 per month which most people spend between 5 to 7 months on the trail and this is without equipment cost to start the trail.
Equipment cost easily run $1,000 plus before you even step on to the trail and most of your equipment will have to be replaced as you go due to use, losing or leaving items on the trail, small animals feeding off them, and other reasons. For example, most hikers go through at least 4 to 5 pair of shoes. About one pair every 500 miles.
The most expensive thing is going to town. Between the want of a hot shower, a real bed, and a good restaurant; your budget can explode. Especially, if you like beer!!!!! The trail has a lot of wonderful brewery located around it and in the towns near it.
Budget hikers will do hostiles at $10 plus a night sleeping with other hikers in the same room. Others will get their own rooms at hotels and motels along the way or share the room with an hiker(s). This amount really depends on each persons budget and comfort level.
Think about it like going to Disneyland. The cost of accommodations is one of the biggest expenses. My grandmother use to live an hour from Disneyland and it was free to stay with her. The budget inns around Disneyland would be the next highest cost but not too bad. Then the Disneyland Resort and depending on if you get a room or a suite, the cost can skyrocket. The AP Trail is no different.
Most hikers will spend at least a few days a month in a hostel, a motel, and/or a hotel room. More in the beginning and towards the end of the hike. Some times because the hostel is right on the trail, some times for comfort or injuries, but most because they a vacation from the trail or because everything they own is wet and they need to reset.
But the budget can go insane depending on the food that you take with you, get in care packages, and/or buy along the way. Ready to eat meals for trail hikers can cost $9 for one packet and you need three or more a day plus snacks. Or peanut butter, crackers, and cheap snacks will get you by. But most people do something in the middle.
Budgeting is one of the most important things that a thru hiker needs to do. One of the most common reasons that hikers leave the trail is because they run out of money.
How many people are on the trail?
Over 3 million people per year will hike parts of the AP Trail. Many parts of the trail go through State and Federal Parks with places of interest such as Pine Grove State Park. Pine Grove State Park has a historical Iron Furnace, the Appalachian Trail Museum, camping, historical cabins, boat rentals, and so much more. Most of the people visiting are enjoying family and friend time and are not doing the thru hike.
It is estimated that over 20,000 hikers have completed the AP Trail thru hike. According to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, in 2018, almost 3,862 NoBo hikers start at Springer Mountain and this does not court those that did not register. About half made it to Harpers Ferry. Only about 19% completed their hikes.
According to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, in 2018, almost 420 SoBo hikers start at Katahdin Mountain and this does not count those that did not register. About 90% of them made it to Harpers Ferry. Only about 26% completed their hikes. (Note: most beginning hikers do not start in Katahdin, Maine which is why the numbers are better. The 100 mile wilderness usually scares them to start at Springer Mountain.)
These numbers don’t include section hikers or flip floppers. But notice that less then 20% completion rate. Most hiker quit in less the 30 miles in. Many of those just did not realized what they where getting into.
The numbers for 2019 are not complete at this point and those for 2020 were not collected as the Appalachian Trail Conservancy asked hikers to leave the trail and go home due to Covid19. Most did but a few stayed.
This year, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy will not be keeping numbers and they have asked hiking to put off their trips until 2022. But many people are doing this without recognition for their completion including myself.
Why do people start the trail? Why do people get off the trail in the middle of the hike?
Why do people get married? It is a one of those questions that is so different for each person that it is unanswerable. In general, many people start the trail because they dream of it. It is the human sprit of adventure.
Most people who get on the trail for a length of time find it life changing. The first reported thru hiker was Earl V. Shaffer who in 1948, walked the entire trail to “walk the Army out of his system.” (Quote from the Appalachian Trail Conservancy website.)
He had returned from WWII and just needed space. He wrote is memoir about the journey which is still in print and I will list below. He would do the trip two more times but he also brought international interest to the trail with his book. He died in 2004. His trail name was The Crazy One which was later change to The Original Crazy One.
Each person does it for their own reasons. But each person that completes the trail or a significate amount of it and will learn what they are made of, many will heal from past mistakes and injuries, others will learn to love themselves but hiking the trail changes people.
Why am I hiking the trail?
In my 20’s, ex husband said that I could not never do it. But over the years, I read the books about the AP Trail and loved the thought of walking through fourteen states and just enjoying the outdoors and reading in new places.
So, I will be starting the trail in April 2020. I wanted to do this for years but this is the first time that I have had the time, just enough money, and I am physical fit enough to do so.
My biggest issue is my back. But I should be able to make the hike, the question really comes down to will I be able to do the mileage that I need to do to complete it in one year. The other question is will I be able to go straight through or will I have to flip flop to make sure that I make it the October 15th date for the Mt. Katahdin.
I will have to leave the trail every four to six weeks to do a grocery run for a relative but otherwise, I plan to be on the trail until I make it to Mt. Katahdin or until it does not make sense to stay, i.e. if I get hurt. Join me here and on my new youtube channel to follow me through the good, the bad, and the blisters of the Appalachian Trail….
Books
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A Walking in the Woods is the greatest book to read. It is Bill Bryson’s hike on the trail back in 1998. It really talks about what everything that can happen on the trail in a tone which allows you to live it through him. He is not over selling the trail, it is just simple this is what it is!
It was so impressive that it was even made into a movie. For those of you who don’t like to read.
AWOL on the Appalachian Trail is is a great book as well. David Miller writes about his trip and between him and Bill Bryson, they are both totally fantastic.
Several other books have come out since they wrote their books did but these is the ones that sold me on doing the trail.
The books above are the greatest for your prehike but the best and most important book for the trail is The A.T. Guide. This is one of those books that you can buy used or have an old one laying around the house but if you are hiking the trail, you need the current copy. It list the trail by each mile that has something that you might need, i.e. water, shelter, parking lot, and so much more.
I just got mine this evening and I was looking at it. One of the things that is going to make a major change in my plans is between mile 24.5 and mile 34.2, you have to have a hard-shell bear-resistant canister. I was looking forward to to staying at Blood Mountain Shelter but I don’t want to have to carry a bear-resistant canister. This means that I will either have to get a room at the Neel Gap Hostel which is way earlier then I wanted to stay in a hostel or I will have to hike straight through.
In addition, the book talks about things like at mile 395.3 is The Station at 19E, which I want to stop at, has a restaurant, resupplies, craft beer, and more. Plus for $30, The Station has a shuttle to pick you up beds, shower, laundry, and more. The book also give a little map with the town with the different hotels, shops, and other interesting things. I can’t imagine not having this book with me while I hike. (Or I will be pulling it apart and only taking a bit at a time so I don’t have to carry all of it…lol)