Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) Trail 1 to 5 ish-Cumberland, MD to Cash Valley Road Parking Area

The Great Allegheny Passage has wonderful sites to see and a great place to be alone or with family during the COVID-19. This is the beganing of the trail if you are starting from Cumberland and headed to Pittsburgh, PA.

I love Cumberland, MD! It is rich in history. It was a fort, headquarters for George Washington, a key road for moving west, a railroad and canal junction, a stop on the underground railroad, a major manufacture at one time, and helped supply the industrial revolution with coal, iron ore, and timber.

Check out my post on Cumberland and its history. I went before COVID-19 hit. I was waiting to go back this summer to ride the railroad to Frostburg but I am not sure if it will be opening any time soon.

But plan to stay a day in Cumberland before starting the trail when things open up again and even before because a lot of the things that you can see are along a walking trail through the city, i.e. George Washington’s Headquarters, the outline of the fort, and other items.

Mile 0 to 1-Cumberland

Starting the trail is from Cumberland is an up hill battle as you will be going from 620 feet to 1832 feet in the first 15 miles but the grade is so gradual that you might miss that you are going uphill when you are walking but it does take a bit more for those that are on a bike.

The trip starts at this gateway. It is were the C and O Canal Trail from Washington D.C. ends and the GAP Trail starts.

Walking down the path will take you to several restaurants, a bike shop, and the C and O Canal. But the GAP Trail is the opposite way.

The train station and the C and O Museum are a must see if you have a little time. Also, on the other side of the train station is George Washington’s Headquarters, Fort Cumberland, and other historical items with in a few blocks.

The trail goes down the street about a block. If you look up before crossing the street you will see the Church pictured above where Fort Cumberland once was. Check out my other blog on Cumberland for more information.

Once across the street and over the railroad tracks, the trail starts to get less and less city and more and more country. Watch the railroad tracks, one train goes to and from Frostburg with tourist. Some of the tourist actually get to drive the train.

The walk through to mile to is through the back yard of the city.

Then you hit this bridge and most of the traffic is on the other side of the Willis Creek.

With local art work under the bridge.

Then you hit the trail that only has one place to get off before your next parking area. Before you hit the 2nd mile marker.

All the while, you are following the train tracks to Frostburg.

Brief History

The Fort was original named Fort Mount Pleasant around 1754. But in 1755, Cumberland was named after the Duke of Cumberland who was the commander-in-chief of the British Army. It was the westernmost outpost of the British Empire in the Americas.

Fort Cumberland would be the launching area for General Braddock against the French at Fort Duquesne, i.e. Pittsburgh today. General Braddock would die during this expedition and would leave a young George Washington as the highest ranking person.

When Washington arrived back at Fort Cumberland, Captain Dagworthy refuse to allow Major Washington command because Washington was in the Virginia militia and he held a Royal commission in the Provincial Troops.

This slap in the face was the beginnings of a young George becoming a leader in the American Revolution. Even if he did not know it yet.

Mile 1 to 2-Narrows and Lovers Leap

As you hit mile 1, you are the trees surround you and the city falls away.

But then around the corner, you are headed into the Cumberland “Narrows”. (See Brief History below)

With the railroad track beside you as you follow the Wills Creek.

Wills Mountain on the other side of the creek from you and Haystack Mountain next to you.

Also, the last place that you will see food during the 5 miles to the parking area. Love’s Leap Restaurant and Bar is across the street and this little parking area.

The park area give you a great view of Wills Creek.

And the Wills Mountain. There is a state park on the top called Wills Mountain State Park but it is undeveloped with many private property areas. If you are really interested, then there is a way up there and rock climbing.

Steps that lead to an old building who foundation is all that is left.

Then you come to the sign about Lover’s Leap and the legend of an Indian Princess who wants to marry Jack Chadwick but the Chief, her father, forbids it. In the end, the Chief attacks Jack. Jack kills the Chief. The Princess can not bring herself to marry the man that killed her father but refuses to live without him. So, they choose to leap off the highest cliff hand in hand. (See the full story at Appalachian History.)

Afterwards you come out of the “Narrows”.

Brief History

The Cumberland “Narrows” served as a western gateway from Cumberland to the Ohio River Valley. It was localed along Nemacolin’s Trail which was an old Native American trade route from Cumberland, Maryland to Brownsville, PA and places in between.

In 1749 and 1750, Indian Chief Nemacolin and Thomas Cresap improved the trail for Christopher Gist, the founder of Fort Cumberland.

It would later become part of Braddock’s Road, Route 40 (which starts in Cumberland, MD), and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad’s main line between Baltimore & Washington DC and Pittsburgh.

Currently, it is being used as both a highway and a tourist attraction for the Western Maryland Scenic Railway and the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) trail.

Mile 2 to 3

Mile 2 has you climb high away from the highway below and following the railroad tracks. There are few streets that cross the trail until you reach mile 3.

But the sites are great.

In the distance you can see a railroad bridge. It is totally cool.

The bridge was built in 1910. It has 2 spans of 150 feet.

The bridge has a bit of a curve to it.

Looking back you can see Wills Mountain.

Then the path just opens up with small walls on either side with small turns so you can’t see what is coming next and crossing one street. You get this beautiful picture of a mountain off to the side of the trail.

But the trail becomes straight with a cliff on the right side that just keeps climbing up slowly. Some times with houses below and other times with nothing.

Half way down is mile 3 but the marker is in the trees.

Mile 3 to 4

The straight is about a mile long before anything else comes up except for a few rocks to sit on.

But the rocks get higher on the right side of the trail going towards Pittsburgh.

Then a bend comes up that is about a half circle.

If you look back, then this is beautiful mountain in the background.

The wall around this tunnel are pretty high but as you turn this corner….

The bone cave come into view.

The cave behind the gate can the green moss growing on it. Just past the cave is mile 4.

Brief History

The cave was discovered in 1912. The Western Maryland Railway was excavating the area when they broke into the cave. A naturalist noticed fossil bones in the rocks that had been blasted loose and removed.

The naturalist notified the Smithsonian Institiution and someone was sent to excavate the cave.

During a four year period, over 40 mammals were found of which 16% of those were extinct including the skeletons of the Pleistocene Cave Bear and the Saber-toothed Cat which are on exhibit in the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington DC at the Ice Age Mammal exhibit.

Mile 4 to 5 miles

The 4 mile marker is just past the cave.

There is a bit of a a straight away and a bend…

Then you hit a road with a bit of a small community but there is no where to park. It is just a bunch of scattered houses.

But it is a nice little straight away until you hit mile 5.

But at the bend is the Cash Valley Road Parking Area.

This is a very important parking area for those that want to see the bone cave but not hike the whole trail.

And only a 144 miles to go!!!!